錫蘭紅茶

錫蘭紅茶

楊惟婷

 

【起源 】

 

「錫蘭紅茶」是對產自有綠色伊甸園之稱的斯里蘭卡紅茶的統稱。

「錫蘭」即為今日的「斯里蘭卡」,位於印度半島南部,原名語意為「光明富饒的樂土」、「充滿驚喜之地」。

 

「錫蘭王國」於1972 年更改國名,是世界著名的紅茶產地。錫蘭高地茶主要有烏沃茶(Uva)、汀布拉茶(Dimbulla)和努沃勒埃利耶茶。其中以烏沃茶是世界四大紅茶之一。

 

錫蘭紅茶始於1865年,在此之前錫蘭境內並無種植紅茶。

當時,因咖啡鏽蝕病的感染造成整個國家所種植的咖啡樹幾乎死亡,而後英國人James Taylor自中國引進紅茶茶樹,才正式開啟了紅茶在錫蘭的歷史,甚至對現今斯里蘭卡的經濟佔有一席之地。

現在,鍚蘭紅茶其總產量是世界第二位,成為斯里蘭卡一項重要的經濟支柱,故當地人將紅茶視為「綠色黃金」。

 

【產區概況】

 

斯里蘭卡是位於印度洋中的島國。

位於其國內中央山地中心位置的努瓦拉艾利雅(Nuwara Eliya),意為「光明之城」,海拔1889公尺,是斯里蘭卡最重要的紅茶產地與集散地。此地處熱帶,夏季平均氣溫約35度、冬季的平均氣溫30度,但因有高海拔的中央山脈,形成許多適合茶葉生長的丘陵與高山地形,斯里蘭卡的茶葉產區也就圍繞著中央山脈。

 

山嶽地帶的東側常年雲霧彌漫,由於冬季吹送的東北季風帶來較多的雨量(11月~次年2月),不利茶園生產,所以以7~9月收獲的茶品質最優。其中,以烏沃茶最著名。

 

西側則因為受到夏季(5—8月)西南季風帶來較多的雨量的影響,不利茶園生產,所以以1~3月收獲的茶品質最優。其中,以汀布拉茶和努沃勒埃利耶茶最著名。

 

百年來,斯里蘭卡境內已形成六個主要紅茶產區,六大產區因氣候、地形的不同,各自形成不同的特色。分別為烏沃、烏達普沙拉瓦、努瓦納愛利、盧哈納、坎迪、迪布拉等。

 

錫蘭紅茶因產區、季節與海拔高度的不同,其風味可謂變化萬千,其中,以烏沃所產的茶最具知名度,與中國祁門紅茶,印度的阿薩姆紅茶,以及大吉嶺紅茶有世界四大名茶之稱。

 

【製造方法】

 

斯里蘭卡的茶仍完全由手工採摘。由於空氣潔凈,為世上唯一不經清洗直接進入晾曬程序的紅茶。

高地茶又分為早茶(取茶尖上端葉子,味道略苦)和下午茶(取下端葉子,味道清淡)。

 

剛收回來的錫蘭紅茶茶菁,須置放通風處24小時,翻翻茶葉,隔開露水。但現在以吹風機代勞,縮短烘乾時間。然後經過轉動,讓茶葉捲起來、再經篩選(茶葉大小分級)、發酵(約三小時),就可包裝外銷了,整個過程最快約需36小時。

 

由於生長在溫暖及潮濕的丘陵地帶及平原上,茶樹每7至8日都會長出新葉,而採茶的活動全年都可以進行,而其中在東部地方於7月下旬至8月下旬採摘,及在西部地區於2月上旬至3月中旬採摘的茶葉則選定為最上乘的茶葉。

 

錫蘭紅茶依摘採部位、生產成茶後經機器篩選,依大小或其外觀制定名稱,但名稱與茶葉品質無直接關係。茶葉分類主要循著二大類細分,其一為James Taylor最初所製全葉茶系統,另一則逐趨勢所需的碎葉茶系統。

 

錫蘭紅茶依其茶葉採摘和篩選過程,可區分出四種不同等級,分別為OP、FOP、BOP、BOPF等。

1、OP為最基礎級,指的是茶色呈現橙黃色的完整茶葉;

2、BOP(Broken Orange Pekoe)則是切碎的OP茶葉,最適合一般人用來沖泡的散茶;

3、FOP (Flowery Orange Pekoe)指的是採摘前端新長出仍捲成條狀之嫩葉部分製成的,為最高級的紅茶;

4、至於BOPF是指切的比散茶更細碎的茶葉,亦適合沖泡奶茶。

不管是哪一種,皆具有錫蘭紅茶的特色。

 

香氣極為纖細優雅的錫蘭紅茶,鑑別如下:

1、 包裝上的蘭卡茶葉局(Sri lanka Tea Board)頒發的唯一註冊號(最重要一點);

2、 真假山寨獅王標誌 ;

3、 是否有製造商網站如帝堂錫蘭紅茶斯里蘭卡網站 ;

4、 是否斯里蘭卡當地市面有該品牌在售。

 

【特色 】

 

鍚蘭紅茶不像阿薩姆紅茶那麼渾厚。是一種生長於高地的中等強度的紅茶,帶有高度的收斂性。因為它的風味鮮明、柔和又收斂,錫蘭紅茶成為討喜的下午茶選擇。

 

錫蘭紅茶以烏沃茶最著名,產於山嶽地帶的東側,以7-9月所獲的品質最優,是世界四大紅茶之一。

湯色橙紅明亮,上品茶的湯面有金黃色的光環,猶如加冕一般;其風味特徵是濃烈、香醇、渾厚,透出如薄荷、鈴蘭的芳香;雖較苦澀,但回味甘甜;最適合加入奶精沖泡成奶茶,因此常被拿來當早餐茶。

 

而努瓦納愛利位於高山,所產的茶自然屬於高山茶,茶味較為清淡,多以純茶飲用;坎迪茶生長於中海拔地區,口感鮮明,但較不及於烏瓦茶,卻能與濃濃奶香產生恰到好處的滋味。

 

【錫蘭紅茶沖泡方法】

 

沖泡錫蘭紅茶時必須以滾燙的(100℃)熱水,才能將其香味自茶葉中完全散發出來。因為紅茶香味屬水溶性,水溫越高溫,越能將香味萃取出來。

若以150cc的茶壺為例,須先放入約4~5克的茶葉,然後在注入100℃的開水,靜待2~5分鐘後,即可倒出享用。

 

品質優異的錫蘭紅茶,沖泡後會釋放出發酵茶特有的烘焙味和淡淡花果香氣,非常適合清飲,更能感受錫蘭紅茶最原始的風味;也可依個人喜好加入糖、奶精或檸檬,又別有一番風味在心頭。

 

錫蘭紅茶的茶葉稍大,可以耐較長時間的浸泡以得到味道更強的茶汁,可品嚐感受錫蘭紅茶迴盪於口中的愉悅氣氛,絕對是您悠閒午後的最佳選擇!

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