凍頂烏龍茶
楊惟婷
「凍頂烏龍茶」，歷經無數次高低起伏的炭火淬煉焙製，冰火輪迴、起伏滋味，門外兵馬、壺中水沸。烘焙過程中，稍有閃失，不是炭焦味，就是失去好茶韻味，可謂舉棋，起手無回。其迭有層次的風韻，把杯，無酒也醉，足可讓您拋開人生成敗起伏，休兵楚河漢界。
【起源 】
凍頂烏龍茶（英語：Tung-ting Tea），俗稱凍頂茶，原產地在台灣南投縣的鹿谷鄉凍頂山，它的鮮葉，採自青心烏龍品種的茶樹上，故又名“凍頂烏龍”。凍頂為山名，烏龍為品種名，是一種知名度極高的台灣烏龍茶，素有「北包種，南凍頂」之稱。
凍頂産茶歷史悠久，據《台灣通史》稱：台灣産茶，其來已久，舊志稱水沙連(今南投縣埔里、日月潭、水里、竹山等地)社茶，色如松羅，能避瘴祛暑。
據説，清咸豐五年(1855年)，南投鹿谷鄉村民林鳳池，往福建考試讀書，還鄉時帶回武夷烏龍茶苗36株種于凍頂山等地，逐漸發展成當今的凍頂茶園。
凍頂山是鳳凰山的支脈，居於海拔700米的高崗上，傳説山上種茶，因雨多、山高、路滑，上山的茶農必須蹦緊腳尖(凍腳尖)才能上山頂，故稱此山為“凍頂”。凍頂山上栽種了青心烏龍茶等茶樹良種，山高、林密、土質好，茶樹生長茂盛。
另一說是1855年（清朝咸豐年間），鹿谷林鳳池赴福建應試，高中舉人，還鄉時，自武夷山帶回36株青心烏龍茶苗，其中12株由「林三顯」種在麒麟潭邊的凍頂山。最早是凍頂山一帶茶農，以甕裝茶販售，又有「凍頂甕裝烏龍茶」之稱。
再一說是世居鹿谷鄉「彰雅村」「凍頂巷」的蘇姓家族，其先祖於清朝康熙年間自大陸移民台灣，自乾隆年間已往「凍頂山」開墾種茶。
【製造方法】
凍頂茶的原產地在南投縣的鹿谷鄉，主要是以青心烏龍為原料製成的半發酵茶，傳統上，其發酵程度在30%左右。
製茶過程獨特之處在於：
凍頂烏龍茶的採制工藝十分講究，採摘青心烏龍等良種芽葉，經曬青、涼青、浪青、炒青、揉捻、初烘、多次反復的團揉(包揉)、復烘、再焙火而製成。
尤其茶葉烘乾後需再重複以布包成球狀揉捻茶葉，使其成半發酵、半球狀，稱為「布揉製茶」或「熱團揉」。揉捻後，茶葉帶有隱隱金黃色。
傳統凍頂烏龍茶帶明顯焙火味，亦有輕培火製茶。此外，亦有「陳年炭焙茶」，是每年反覆拿出來高溫慢烘焙，而製出甘醇後韻十足的茶。
在沖泡後茶湯呈淡琥珀色，略帶花果香，味醇厚甘潤，並有明顯焙火韻味，茶葉展開，葉底邊緣鑲紅邊，稱為「綠葉紅鑲邊」，十分具有特色。
1999年九二一大地震後，鹿谷地區茶農在災後重建中研發出「凍頂貴妃茶」。鹿谷鄉農會每年舉辦茶葉比賽，評選出特等（冠軍茶）、頭等、二等、三等、優良茶（五朵梅、四朵梅、三朵梅、二朵梅、一朵梅）等品級。
凍頂烏龍茶是台灣包種茶的一種。台灣包種茶屬輕度或中度發酵茶，亦稱“清香烏龍茶”。
包種茶按外形不同可分為兩類，一類是條形包種茶，以“文山包種茶”為代表；另一類是半球形包種茶，以“凍頂烏龍茶”為代表。素有“北文山、南凍頂”之美譽。
【產區概況】
「凍頂」為地名。
一指台灣南投縣鹿谷鄉「麒麟潭」邊的「凍頂山」，據說是因為先民早期無鞋可穿，寒冬必須「凍著腳尖上山頂」而得名。另一指台灣南投縣鹿谷鄉「彰雅村」的「凍頂巷」。
【特色 】
凍頂烏龍茶俗稱凍頂茶，在台灣的知名度極高，素有「北包種，南凍頂」之稱，原產於台灣南投縣鹿谷鄉。凍頂烏龍茶的品質特點為：
外形捲曲呈半球形，其上選品外觀色澤呈墨綠鮮艷，並帶有青蛙皮般的灰白點，條索緊結彎曲，沖泡後湯色黃綠明亮，香氣高，有花香略帶焦糖香，滋味甘醇濃厚，耐沖泡。
凍頂烏龍茶品質優異，歷來深受消費者的青睞，暢銷台灣、港澳、東南亞等地，近年來中國內地一些茶藝館也時髦飲用凍頂烏龍茶。
凍頂烏龍茶為半發酵茶，其發酵程度為在30％左右，口感甘醇，香氣和韻味兼具，在飲用時有特殊之風味而有別於一般之綠茶和紅茶，故凍頂烏龍能獨立於茶類之中，正因其獨特之風味，廣為一般大眾所喜愛；而陳年老烏龍之風味又有別於一般烏龍，香味更甘醇，茶湯中帶有淡淡的蜜棗香和果香，入喉甘甜不澀，更視為烏龍中的極品，是茶饕心中之首選。
【凍頂貴妃茶特色 】
1999年九二一大地震後，鹿谷鄉民重建家園，無意中讓小綠葉蟬(浮塵子)大為肆虐，茶農為重振茶區，多施氮肥，以吸引更多小綠葉蟬棲息，經鹿谷特有的山嵐雲霧滋潤，將採收的著涎茶菁結合凍頂烏龍茶傳統工序而研發出具有果香與蜜香的「凍頂貴妃茶」。
早期於新竹的北埔以及鄰近的苗栗南庄地區也曾發生小綠葉蟬(浮塵子)大為肆虐，茶農刻意將此茶葉採下，無意間茶廠反而喜歡這種茶的味道，且價格反而更好。此茶農將此事告知朋友，無人相信反說他是在說謊《膨風》，後來便成「東方美人茶」的由來。
「凍頂貴妃茶」以青心烏龍為原料，產季集中在夏秋，發酵度20-30%，焙火4-6分，是「中發酵，重烘焙」的茶。有別於「重發酵，輕烘焙」的東方美人茶。
毛茶需以龍眼炭烘焙三次，使蜜香愈來愈重，且越陳越好喝，可作為陳年烏龍茶收藏。
沖泡溫度90-100℃最佳，也適用冷泡法。
茶湯橙紅色，如琥珀般。口感甘甜，帶蜜味及荔枝香。
命名緣由：茶葉外觀白毫顯露，茶湯如琥珀般剔透，不僅有東方美人茶的蜜味及荔枝香，更有凍頂烏龍茶的「綠葉紅鑲邊」，有如貴妃般雍容華貴，故名「凍頂貴妃茶」。
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