武夷岩茶

武夷岩茶

楊惟婷

 

蘇軾在詠茶詩道:「君不見武夷溪邊粟粒芽,前丁後蔡相籠加。爭新買寵各出意,今年斗品充官茶……」由此說明武夷岩茶之珍貴。

 

陸游贊曰:「建溪官茶天下絕」(建溪起源於武夷山)。

 

【起源 】

 

「武夷岩茶」是大陸烏龍茶中之極品,列於中國十大名茶之一,自古就有「茶出武夷,其品最佳」的記載。千年以來,經文人雅士的詩、詞等詠讚,體現出了武夷岩茶的豐富人文傳奇色彩。

 

烏龍茶原產於福建省,屬福建茶系。據說原來茶樹都是野生的,並非由人工栽培,在那些野生茶樹中,也不是完全屬同一品種,在群茶中其中有一株茶樹蟠旋著一條黑蛇,然而這條黑蛇好像很馴良,茶農去採摘茶葉,黑蛇也不會咬人,茶農將所採摘下來的茶菁製成茶葉,味道滋味特佳。由於中國人喜龍不喜蛇,故把這種茶命名為「烏龍茶」。

 

武夷產茶歷史悠久,唐代已栽制茶葉,宋代列為皇家貢品,元代在武夷山九曲溪之四曲畔設立御茶園專門採制貢茶,明末清初創製了烏龍茶武夷山栽種的茶樹,品種繁多,有大紅袍、鐵羅漢、白雞冠、水金龜「四大名樅」。

此外,還有以茶樹生長環境命名的,如不見天、金鎖匙等;以茶樹形狀命名的,如醉海棠、醉洞賓、釣金龜、鳳尾草、玉麒麟、一枝香等;以茶樹葉形命名的,如瓜子金、金錢、竹絲、金柳條、倒葉柳等;以茶樹發芽早遲命名的,如迎春柳、不知春等;以成茶香型命名的,如肉桂、石乳香、白麝香等。

 

由於武夷岩茶的名氣,元朝在武夷山設有御茶園,負責監制進貢的武夷岩茶。御茶園在明朝晚年荒廢,現時遺址上建有御茶園茶樓。

 

【產區概況】

 

「武夷岩茶」是產於福建省北部的祟安縣武夷山地區岩上烏龍茶類的總稱。大自然恩賜的武夷山水風光綺麗,也給茶樹生長提供了優越自然生長條件。武夷山多懸崖絕壁,平均海拔650米。茶農利用岩凹、石隙、石縫,沿邊砌築石岸種茶,有「盆栽式」茶園之稱。因為有「岩岩有茶,非岩不茶」之說,茶以岩名,岩以茶顯,「岩茶」因而得名。

 

武夷岩茶區,氣候溫和(年平均溫度18~18.5℃之間),雨量充沛(年雨量2000毫米左右)。山峰岩壑之間常年雲霧彌漫,年平均相對濕度80%左右。茶園大部分在岩壑幽澗之中,四周山巒屏障,日照短,無風害。而土壤經長年沖積,使得溝谷土地富含有機質,形成了特有岩茶環境。

 

武夷岩茶主要分為兩個產區:名岩產區和丹岩產區。若以生長位置評價武夷岩茶,則可分為三大類:

1、正岩茶

指武夷山中心地帶岩石上所種的茶,視為最高品質。

2、半岩茶

指武夷山邊緣地帶的岩石上所種的茶,武夷山居民亦會飲用。

3、洲茶

泛指武夷山田地(而非岩石)上或沿溪兩岸所載種的茶,當地人甚少飲用,多作外銷用途。有不良商人在洲茶中混入香精等材料,假冒較優質的茶出售。

 

【製造方法】

 

武夷岩茶製作方法自有一套,兼取紅、綠茶製作原理精華,加上特殊技術,使之更加醇厚。而岩茶製作程序繁複細緻:

 

1、採摘:

時間要恰到好處,春茶一般在穀雨後立夏前開採。採摘嫩度對岩茶質量影響頗大。採摘過嫩,無法滿足焙製技術要求,成茶香氣低,味較苦澀;採摘太老則味淡。

2、萎凋:

有日光和加溫萎凋。是形成岩茶香味基礎。萎凋中變化顯著的是水分喪失,促進鮮葉內部發生變化。

3、做青:

岩茶製作過程中精巧程序,是形成其「三紅七綠」即綠葉紅鑲邊的獨特風格和色、香、味的重要環節。而手工茶是指做青中搖青方法用手工操作完成,特點是質高、味純、香氣持久耐儲。

4、炒青與揉撚:

炒青主要把萎凋做青過程已形成品質相對固定。並起純化香氣作用。高溫下完成團炒、吊炒、翻炒三樣動作,才能達到品質要求。起鍋後趁熱迅速揉撚、複炒。

5、烘焙:

複揉葉經解散後,於焙籠中攤放,明火高溫水焙,各焙窯溫度從高至低。其中燉火過程的細緻處理,為岩茶所獨有。經炒製後其形成彎條型,色澤烏亮帶褐帶墨綠帶寶色,條索緊結。

 

【特色 】

 

武夷「岩茶」獨享大自然惠澤,孕育出獨特韻味。明代徐火勃《茶考》述:「武夷山中土氣宜茶」。適宜的土壤,造就出岩茶的優良內質,奉獻給人們獨特的「花香岩骨」。

 

其中,烏龍茶是以烏龍種製造的茶,亦屬於「武夷岩茶」的一種,歸屬重醱酵茶,其醱酵程度70%左右,現在還有用古法製造的烏龍茶,這才是正宗的烏龍茶。高級烏龍茶是採「一葉一心」製造,成品外觀呈黃褐色,隥葉佈滿白毫芽。

 

沖泡後茶湯呈深橙黃色,清澈艷麗。兼有紅茶的甘醇、綠茶的清香;茶性和而不寒,久藏不壞,香久益清,味久益醇。

 

【武夷岩茶沖泡方式 】

 

武夷岩茶的沖泡,別具一格。

1、杯小如胡桃,壺小如椽,每斟無一兩,上口不忍遂咽,先嗅其香,再試其味,徐徐咀嚼而體貼之。

2、開湯第二泡香纏顯露。茶湯的香氣自口吸入,從咽喉經鼻孔呼出,連續三次,所謂「三口氣」,即可鑑別岩茶上品的氣。

3、因其香味濃郁,沖泡五、六次後餘韻猶存。

 

【武夷岩茶的保存】

 

1、武夷岩茶耐儲藏,溫度一般要求在20℃以下。

2、密封、乾燥、避光,可儲藏36個月以上,香味的損失不大。

3、武夷巖茶是條索狀、容易碎,不宜抽真空,一般包裝採硬質包裝,內袋用鋁鉑袋或者塑料袋包裝。

4、只要不讓茶葉跑氣,可買些密封性能好的不銹鋼罐存放。

5、一般不提倡在冰箱低溫保存,最好是用要錫鉑密封袋。

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