DIY染髮
楊惟婷
目前在家DIY染髮愈來愈普遍了。
而染髮族必須有的危險意識是，染髮劑對皮膚的刺激性、毒性與危及健康的後遺症，遠遠大於擦在臉上的化妝品。
一、「PPD」的化學作用
一組染髮劑，從百來元到四、五百元都有，大半都貼上「不含PPD」的標籤。那麼，PPD究竟是什麼呢？
PPD化學全名是Para Phenylene Diamine，中文是對苯二胺。寫法上還有p-Phenylenediamine，都是一樣的成分。
染髮劑的AB兩劑，就像兩節式的組合玩具。之所以要兩劑式設計，就是為了要在「頭髮裡」顯色，先將色料拆解成A與B兩部份，等滲進去頭髮後再組合。
PPD是色料的「半個」身子。PPD是染髮劑的A部份，必須跟B部份組合牢靠後，才能顯現出想要染髮的顏色。
兩劑式的染髮劑中，PPD在第一劑裡。
粉劑式的染髮劑（使用前加水或其他液體混合者），就含在粉劑裡。
PPD是染髮劑中主要的接觸性過敏物質。因為個人膚質差異，常有不同程度的過敏症狀發生，像是發癢、紅腫、濕疹等癥狀。
台灣民眾偏好染藍紫色調、灰黑色調、棕色調，都必須強力借重PPD來當組合的A部份，而其他紅、黃、綠等色調，則使用非PPD的成分。（但嚴格說還是跟PPD的結構類似）
二、注意衛福部核准字號才有保障
請留意那些拚命吹噓草本染髮劑、純植物性染髮劑的品牌。有些業者就吃定消費者「學問有限」，道貌岸然地告訴你PPD有多可怕，混淆你的認知注意力來促成購買，但其實他賣的產品也是含有PPD的。
尤其，你會發現同一個品牌的染髮劑，有些強調不含PPD，有些則無。其實是「色調」決定採用什麼當染髮劑的A部份。但擺在一起銷售，就能微妙地發揮整個品牌都不含PPD的障眼法。
按台灣法規規範：染髮劑必須取得衛福部核准字號才能銷售。而且因為「色號不同」使用的染料成分就不同，因此規定每一個顏色編號，都需要申請一個衛福部核准字號，才能上市販賣。例如進口品牌得申請「衛署妝輸第xxx號」，國內品牌必須申請「衛署妝製第xxx號」。
所以，不論聲稱是天然的或植物的或不含PPD，只要上衛生署藥檢局網站確認有沒有含PPD、含量多少，立刻真相大白。所以，你只要利用包裝盒上的字號（或以產品中英文名稱、代理商、製造工廠名等皆可）就能查詢。
三、正確染髮方法
染髮劑中所使用的主力成分，不論是第一劑或第二劑，對皮膚全都不友善。所以，染髮最重要的概念是：不讓染劑接觸到皮膚。
避免染髮劑傷人的作法，就是謝絕與皮膚（頭皮）接觸。
不管你要DIY染髮，或者家人要染髮，請記住以下重點：
1、選擇一款較安全的染髮劑品牌。
2、染髮前一次的洗髮，不要用潤髮乳、髮膜或髮蠟，避免「附著太多」外來物質在髮絲上，免得染不上去。
3、染髮時，先不要洗頭髮，直接用噴槍將頭髮噴「半濕」，這樣比較好梳理，也比較容易均勻塗上去。（不洗頭是要「留住」好不容易在頭皮上養出的護頭皮油垢）
4、染髮方法是先將第一劑擦在頭髮上（這其實大概要10～15分鐘才能完成），全部擦完後，再將第二劑塗上去。全部塗完後，用雙手（當然是戴手套）把全部的頭髮抓一抓，讓塗上去的染料更均勻。
5、等多久？夏天（室溫27度以上）半小時內就可以。冬天（室溫17度以下）四～五十分鐘左右。大原則，不超過1小時。
6、溫水沖頭髮，而且一定要沖到沒顏色。（不用擔心，這些顏色本來就沒鑽進頭髮裡）儘量把頭皮沖乾淨（先別用洗髮精，沖到沒顏色才用洗髮精）。
7、最後一定要用潤髮乳，而且是傳統「會起泡」的潤髮乳。因為潤髮乳是酸性，而且酸度還滿酸的PH3左右。拿來全頭潤髮，是為了要中和染髮劑的鹼性，讓頭髮不至於角質崩盤，愈染髮質愈慘。
此外，可留意染髮前兩天不洗頭，目的是讓頭皮充滿油脂膜保護。
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