咖啡靈魂來自烘焙

咖啡靈魂來自烘焙

楊惟婷

 

一、選購新鮮的咖啡豆

 

咖啡的原點就是咖啡豆,想要品嚐美味的咖啡,第一部就是選購新鮮的咖啡豆。

一般市面上看到的咖啡豆皆是咖啡色的豆子,但是生的咖啡豆是呈現青綠色的色澤;生豆狀態的咖啡豆比較容易長久保存,不過生的咖啡豆可沒辦法直接研磨成咖啡粉,生豆必須經過煎培處理,才會有咖啡的香氣。

 

可是,咖啡內所含的鞣酸也會經過煎培揮發到空氣中,導致咖啡的風味會隨著時間逐漸的流失;咖啡豆研磨的越細,空氣接觸面愈大,它的風味揮發的越快。如果依照一般存放的條件來說,這種情況是很難避免的,除非隔絕氧氣,保存在高水準的冷凍狀態下,才有可能完全抑咖啡的特殊風味流失。所以,想要在咖啡最佳情況之下品味它的美味,最重要的就是如何縮短煎培到抽出咖啡精華的時間,以及如何縮短與空氣接觸的時間。

 

該怎麼買到剛煎培完成的咖啡豆呢?

如果你是不怕麻煩的人的話,不妨自行購買新鮮的咖啡生豆,在家親自煎培;不過,在自家自行煎培的話,技術面可能會稍嫌不足,必須要有熟練的技術,才能炒出上等的咖啡豆。

 

基於這種理由,不如購買市面上煎培好的咖啡豆比較省時,在技術面上也比較可靠。如果想要品味一杯好的咖啡,選購的時候,應該以顧客流量大的店家為首選,這樣才能找到販賣新鮮煎培豆的店家。

 

另外,要辨識店家所販賣的咖啡豆好壞,不妨從以下幾點觀察:

1、裝咖啡豆的玻璃櫥窗是否直接在陽光下曝曬?

2、店裡的空氣是否偏熱、偏濕?

3、玻璃櫥窗是否被咖啡豆的油脂、殼屑等弄髒?

4、整體店面是否乾淨明亮?

 

二、選擇屬於自己的咖啡豆煎培度

 

(一)什麼是咖啡的煎培呢?

 

煎炒咖啡生豆的動作,在咖啡界裡面稱為煎培。

早期發現咖啡豆的時候,咖啡飲用者一直是將咖啡生豆用熬煮的方式來飲用的(為了提神);不過,咖啡豆的生豆其實是沒有味道的,行家都知道,咖啡的特殊迷人香氣是由煎培的動作產生的;後來,發現煎培可以引出咖啡真正的香氣之後,煎培方法就一直使用到現在。

根據這原理,咖啡的香氣可以藉由煎培的程度而有所差別,所以歸納著來說,如果沒有煎培的技術,咖啡不會成為一種世界性的飲料。

 

咖啡生豆是呈現淡綠色色澤,一旦經過煎培的手續,咖啡豆的色澤會轉化成茶褐色,炒的越久,色澤越深,這種褐色的現象是和生豆獨特的成分葉綠酸有關。

咖啡會因為煎培產生極大的變化,其變化最明顯的是香氣的部分,生咖啡豆只有數種不同的香氣成分,但是經過煎培之後咖啡豆會增加到數百種不同的香氣,例如咖啡的芳香味、甜焦味、牛奶微酸味、焦糖味…等等。

咖啡香為雖然號稱有數百種之多,不過卻都不是同時產生出來的,而是在各個煎培階段,經過複雜的化學反應過程後,先後產生出來的,所以咖啡豆的煎培程度,會對咖啡的香氣產生出舉足輕重的影響。

 

 

(二)咖啡靈魂來自烘焙

 

咖啡的酸味、甜味、苦味、濃郁感合稱咖啡的四大風味,這些風味也是由煎培產生而出的;雖然咖啡豆的種類或多或少會形成影響,不過影響最大的依舊是咖啡煎培的程度,尤其是煎培時的火侯掌控、時間長短更為重要。

 

咖啡煎培就是如此的專業,造就咖啡的多元性,讓許多人著迷,甚至有一種說法,認為從喝的咖啡,就可以窺見一個人的個性。

 

如果您是專業咖啡的入門者,相信您一定會對咖啡的各種烘焙程度名字感到困擾,例如city、full city、French、Espresso…等咖啡名稱,這些都是因為所用的烘焙機和出產地區的不同,而產生不同烘焙程度的顏色。

 

即使烘焙出的咖啡豆顏色看起來一樣,咖啡也有可能會有完全不同的風味。不論是所選擇咖啡豆的種類、烘焙熱度、烘焙方式,或是烘焙時間的長短…等,諸多因素都是最後決定咖啡風味的主要因素,烘焙,可以說是咖啡領域中的一大學問。所以,咖啡的多元,即是來自於烘焙。

 

(三)烘焙的方法

 

在烘焙的過程中,咖啡豆會產生一連串複雜的化學變化,整個烘焙過程大約需要20~30分鐘不等。

一開始會經過大約15分鐘的烘焙,原本呈現綠色的咖啡生豆會在這個步驟中失去原有的濕度,像爆玉米花般爆裂開來,整個咖啡豆的體積會膨脹兩倍以上,並且呈現出輕炒過後的淺褐色;之後,再根據咖啡豆種類的不同,以及所需的烘焙程度,進一步的增加烘焙的時間,在這個步驟裡,咖啡豆的顏色會轉變成各種不同深淺的褐色;最後,烘焙完成後,可以直接用冷空氣急速冷卻或是直接噴水冷卻,烘焙手續即可完成。

 

經過烘焙過後的咖啡豆主要分成四大類,分別是淺、中、深和特深。1、淺炒的咖啡豆呈現淺褐色,大多具有濃厚的氣味,沖泡出的咖啡具有很高的酸度,但醇度可能就沒辦法表現得那麼好。

2、中炒的咖啡豆醇度上十分濃厚,但同時也可以保有大部分的酸度。

3、深炒的咖啡豆呈現深棕色,咖啡中所含的酸度被輕微的苦味代替,有時還會產生出一種辛辣的口感。

4、特深炒的豆子呈現黑色,有一種碳灰的苦味,相對的醇味就沒那麼的濃厚。

 

總之,咖啡的顏色、味道、香氣,是透過烘焙過程在中發生的一些複雜的化學變化所造成的。所以生的咖啡豆,必須經過適當的烘焙(化學)程序,讓它的必要成份達到最均衡的狀態,才能算得上是最好的烘焙豆。

 

咖啡香味會隨熱度起變化,所以烘焙時間宜盡量縮短,而且熱度控制在可讓咖啡豆產生有效化學構成的最低限溫度,亦即得以最短過程的時間和熱度,讓咖啡豆產生最適合的成份比。

 

三、烘烤咖啡豆DIY

 

自己烘烤咖啡豆是個高難度挑戰。以下分享如何在自家的廚房中烘烤咖啡豆的秘訣。

 

1、最容易的方法是在烤箱中烘烤咖啡豆。

這樣做最大的好處是能調節溫度,不會讓家中彌漫烤焦咖啡的味道。首先把烤箱加熱到230°C,切記要使咖啡豆之間保持空氣流通,不要把豆鋪得太厚;大約烘烤10分鐘後,觀察其顏色的變化,再注意聽咖啡豆發出的劈啪聲,並時刻檢查顏色;當咖啡豆的顏色只比想要的淺一點兒時,就把它們從烤箱中取出冷卻,餘熱會使咖啡豆繼續加熱2~4分鐘。

 

2、或者,也可以買一個爐上使用的家庭烘烤爐具,但最好的是傳統的平底鍋型或者爆穀(玉米花)機型,用一個手柄來操縱機器內部的兩個垂直的金屬片,這兩個金屬片可以在烘烤時旋轉咖啡豆。

此烘烤爐具可以在二手商店或好的廚房用具商店買到,在那裏還能買到價格不貴的烤箱溫度計。

咖啡烘好後,把它們從烤具中取出,放進一個耐熱的碗中,把碗放在窗邊或戶外。

 

四、烘好的咖啡豆該怎麼保存?

 

最後,烘好的咖啡豆,又該怎麼保存呢?

想要讓烘的咖啡豆保存良好的風味,就要盡快把它放進真空袋裡包妥,最好放在溫度、濕度較低的地方,在家庭中大多是冰箱裡,不過切忌冰箱裡不可有異臭。

而烘好的咖啡豆也盡快在7~10天內用完,以免咖啡的風味變質。

 

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