咖啡鑑賞原則
楊惟婷
喝咖啡可以很隨性,例如可以在純粹的黑咖啡裏,加一點點糖、奶精;也可以歐式一點,像非洲和阿拉伯人那樣在咖啡中加入肉桂等香料;如果不習慣咖啡苦澀味,也可以在咖啡裏加一點喜歡的果汁。
一、四個鑑賞原則
不過,唯有喝一杯原汁原味的黑咖啡,才能夠品嘗到咖啡本身濃郁的風味,才是品嚐咖啡的行家高手。
品味咖啡不僅要喝(三味–酸、甜、苦),還要用聞(香味)的。
雖然咖啡並沒有絕對好壞的判別公式,但是掌握以下四個行家慣用的鑑賞原則,會有助於瞭解咖啡,進而懂得品味咖啡:
1、酸度(Acidity)
咖啡入口後,輕留在舌尖的滋味,酸字看來剌眼,其實咖啡豆的果實原味和新鮮活力,就像葡萄酒一樣,都蘊藏在它的酸味裡,新鮮咖啡散發的酸性,帶著果實的芳香,就像檸檬、葡萄、蘋果等水果中所含的天然果酸,口味愉悅而清新。此酸字,與用來形容過期腐壞咖啡的字眼sour,必須有所區別。
酸味是受生豆的品種和製做方式影響。
就產地標高而言,高地栽種的咖啡會比低地栽種來得酸。
就採收時間而言,剛採收的豆子,比採收後放了一陣子的豆子來得酸;且剛採收的豆子,質良、含水率高,如能適當的熱作用產生適度的酸味,將可使咖啡的味道更佳,讓人覺得更有深度。
就烘焙方式而言,一般烘焙較淺的豆子,酸味較豐富;烘焙程度較深者,酸味較缺乏。
咖啡中,以強烈酸性聞名的是葉門摩卡咖啡。
2、質感濃淡(Body)
啜飲咖啡後,在舌背和口腔徘徊不去的味覺感受,是濃烈、還是清淡?質感醇厚的咖啡,即使咖啡粉濃度不高,仍能帶來強烈的味覺震盪。重口味的咖啡,最適合與牛奶混合演出,突顯它無法掩蓋的道地香醇滋味。
一般來說,墨西哥咖啡口味最清淡,而蘇門答臘(曼特寧)咖啡質感則最烈。
3、香味(Aroma)
彌漫遊走在空氣中的咖啡醇香,從烘焙、研磨、到沖煮,咖啡豆在它漫長旅途中的每一站,都極盡全力釋放氛芳香氣,因此,善用嗅覺,隨著咖啡,一起體驗芳香之旅。
4、風味(Flavor)
串連以上三者,拼湊出咖啡的印象,有的咖啡風味多樣,酸、甜、苦三味面面俱到,有的則酸味極度泛濫,完全佔領嗅覺和味覺,也有人習慣用感覺來主宰判斷,咖啡是否有自己的風格?是否別具叢林或水果芳香?氣質是溫柔還是陽剛?這是所有品味過程中,最感性的。
二、咖啡的品味方法
不論怎麼喝,品嚐咖啡是有一些講究和知識的。一杯咖啡端到面前,先不要急於喝,應該像品茶或品酒那樣,有個循序漸進的過程,以達到放鬆、提神和享受的目的。
1、聞香
體驗一下咖啡那撲鼻而來的濃香。
2、觀色
咖啡最好呈現深棕色,而不是一片漆黑,深不見底。
3、品味
咖啡豆中含有大約5-8%的糖分。
在烘焙過程中,蔗糖及葡萄糖等碳水化合物之一部分會產生焦糖化,剩下的部分會形成甜味;且烘焙時釋放出丹寧酸,與焦糖結合,會產生略帶苦味的甜味,這些即是咖啡甜味、苦味和香味的來源;尤其高級咖啡特有的甜味和苦味,即是呈現這種完美協調的結果。所以,人們對咖啡的味感,一般會有酸、甜、苦、香、澀幾種。
品味時,可先喝一口黑咖啡,感受一下原味咖啡的滋味;咖啡入口應該是有些甘味、微苦、微酸不澀;然後再小口、小口地品嚐,不要急於將咖啡一口嚥下,暫時含在口中,讓咖啡和唾液與空氣稍作混合,然後再吞下。
4、溫度
飲用咖啡的最佳溫度,在咖啡沖泡的刹那,適當溫度為攝氏83℃;倒入杯中時為80℃;而到口中時的最佳溫度為61-62℃最理想。
為了不使咖啡的味道降低,要事先將咖啡杯在開水中泡熱。
一般來說,趁熱品嚐咖啡,是喝咖啡的基本禮節。
因為普通咖啡的質地不太穩定,所以最好趁熱品嘗;但若是一杯品質優良的咖啡,放涼以後除香味會有減少外,口感表現與熱時應是一致的,甚至更佳。
5、滋味
一般我們都用濃醇來表現咖啡圓熟、芳醇、濃厚的味道。
有時,或可加入適量的牛奶,可改變口感;而在糖份的調配上,也不妨多些變化,使咖啡更具美味
6、適量
喝咖啡不像喝酒或果汁,滿杯的咖啡,看了就失去喝的興趣。
普通都只到七、八分滿為適量,份量適中的咖啡不僅會刺激味覺,喝完後也不會有膩的感覺,反而回味無窮;同時,適量的咖啡能適度的促使身體恢復疲勞,頭腦為之清爽。
咖啡的味道有濃淡之分,所以不能像喝茶或可樂一樣,連續喝幾杯;普通喝咖啡以80-100cc為適量,有時候若想連續喝三、四杯,就要將咖啡的濃度沖淡。
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