阿里山高山茶
楊惟婷
獨領風騷的阿里山高山茶,融和高山茶特有自然花香與喉韻,沖泡時有如置身滿佈茶園的山林幽境、如詩如畫。茶韻如同某詩人的詩吟:『邀茶味揮毫,舌尖生花;叫茶韻潑墨,杯中春夏;引暗香浮動,疏影橫斜;攬閒情上色,濃淡皆佳』。
【起源 】
獨領風騷的阿里山烏龍茶是台灣高山茶的代表,茶園海拔在800公尺到1400公尺之間,茶區分佈在龍美、隙頂、巃頭、光華、石桌、十字路、達邦、里佳及豐山等山地部落,這些部落所產的茶,對外通稱「阿里山高山茶」。
阿里山高山茶會受到歡迎主要的因素,除了行銷人員的推廣,還要歸功於台灣得天獨厚的自然環境。
【製造方法】
台灣現有的高山茶園多是原本的林地、竹地開墾而來,多年的有機質堆積使得地力雄厚,能夠提供充足的養份,成為植茶的最佳地點。
此外,高山植茶還有下列兩項優勢:
一是因為高山氣候冷涼,早晚雲霧籠罩,平均日照短,導致茶樹芽葉中所含「兒茶素類」等苦澀成分降低,進而提高了「茶胺酸」及「可溶氮」等對甘味有貢獻的成分。
二是由於日夜溫差大及長年午後雲霧遮蔽的緣故,使得茶樹的生長過於緩慢,讓茶葉具有芽葉柔軟,葉肉厚實,果膠質含量高等的優點。
就阿里山茶來說,一般常見的有兩個品種,為青心烏龍和金萱,而烘焙火候則有清香與熟香兩款。
1、青心烏龍,因為阿里山海拔不高,以青心烏龍所製的茶須做輕焙火,才能降低它的刺激性,依阿里山產區習慣採其嫩芽嫩葉,並重揉製,製成如綠豆般大小的茶,俗稱珠露茶。
2、金萱,阿里山區的金萱在台灣高山茶來說,較有其特色。
【產區概況】
全世界最優良的茶園集中在北迴歸線附近約50公里內的山區,阿里山茶區即是位於嘉義縣阿里山山脈的高深山區,茶園分佈於阿里山鄉、梅山鄉、竹崎鄉、中埔鄉、大埔鄉、番路鄉一帶高海拔區域,海拔在 1000-1500 公尺間。
【特色 】
阿里山山間長年雲霧繚繞,氣候冷涼,上午日照充足,午後山嵐雲霧飄渺,此時氣溫會驟然下降(海拔每升高 100 公尺氣溫就會下降 0.6 度)日夜溫差大。因此,使得茶樹生長趨於緩慢,芽葉柔軟,葉肉厚實,苦澀成分低,果膠質含量高,進而提昇了茶葉的甘醇美味,這些都是阿里山高山茶所展現出的特性。
此外,這裡所產的茶葉多以山泉水灌溉,滋味甘潤醇厚,香氣幽雅持久,具有濃厚的高山冷冽口感,其獨特的風味堪稱世界第一。
產地位於阿里山之「珠露茶」,是茶中的精華,終年茶山雲霧環繞,高海拔、多霧的環境最適合生長,採用人工反覆揉捏製成。阿里山這裡的師父揉茶功夫最厲害,常可揉成像碧綠玉珠一樣美麗。
阿里山茶茶湯色澤翠綠鮮活,滋味甘醇、滑軟、厚重帶活性;氣味充滿淡雅花香,入口香醇韻美。
阿里山茶因為採用人工反覆揉捏而製成,人工的炭焙烘製,所以泡水茶韻持久不退、耐沖泡,以滾水沖泡50秒為佳,可沖三至五泡,讓您一再回味阿里山茶香於口中漫舞之韻。
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