武夷岩茶
楊惟婷
蘇軾在詠茶詩道：「君不見武夷溪邊粟粒芽，前丁後蔡相籠加。爭新買寵各出意，今年斗品充官茶……」由此說明武夷岩茶之珍貴。
陸游贊曰：「建溪官茶天下絕」(建溪起源於武夷山)。
【起源 】
「武夷岩茶」是大陸烏龍茶中之極品，列於中國十大名茶之一，自古就有「茶出武夷，其品最佳」的記載。千年以來，經文人雅士的詩、詞等詠讚，體現出了武夷岩茶的豐富人文傳奇色彩。
烏龍茶原產於福建省，屬福建茶系。據說原來茶樹都是野生的，並非由人工栽培，在那些野生茶樹中，也不是完全屬同一品種，在群茶中其中有一株茶樹蟠旋著一條黑蛇，然而這條黑蛇好像很馴良，茶農去採摘茶葉，黑蛇也不會咬人，茶農將所採摘下來的茶菁製成茶葉，味道滋味特佳。由於中國人喜龍不喜蛇，故把這種茶命名為「烏龍茶」。
武夷產茶歷史悠久，唐代已栽制茶葉，宋代列為皇家貢品，元代在武夷山九曲溪之四曲畔設立御茶園專門採制貢茶，明末清初創製了烏龍茶武夷山栽種的茶樹，品種繁多，有大紅袍、鐵羅漢、白雞冠、水金龜「四大名樅」。
此外，還有以茶樹生長環境命名的，如不見天、金鎖匙等；以茶樹形狀命名的，如醉海棠、醉洞賓、釣金龜、鳳尾草、玉麒麟、一枝香等；以茶樹葉形命名的，如瓜子金、金錢、竹絲、金柳條、倒葉柳等；以茶樹發芽早遲命名的，如迎春柳、不知春等；以成茶香型命名的，如肉桂、石乳香、白麝香等。
由於武夷岩茶的名氣，元朝在武夷山設有御茶園，負責監制進貢的武夷岩茶。御茶園在明朝晚年荒廢，現時遺址上建有御茶園茶樓。
【產區概況】
「武夷岩茶」是產於福建省北部的祟安縣武夷山地區岩上烏龍茶類的總稱。大自然恩賜的武夷山水風光綺麗，也給茶樹生長提供了優越自然生長條件。武夷山多懸崖絕壁，平均海拔650米。茶農利用岩凹、石隙、石縫，沿邊砌築石岸種茶，有「盆栽式」茶園之稱。因為有「岩岩有茶，非岩不茶」之說，茶以岩名，岩以茶顯，「岩茶」因而得名。
武夷岩茶區，氣候溫和(年平均溫度18～18.5℃之間)，雨量充沛(年雨量2000毫米左右)。山峰岩壑之間常年雲霧彌漫，年平均相對濕度80%左右。茶園大部分在岩壑幽澗之中，四周山巒屏障，日照短，無風害。而土壤經長年沖積，使得溝谷土地富含有機質，形成了特有岩茶環境。
武夷岩茶主要分為兩個產區：名岩產區和丹岩產區。若以生長位置評價武夷岩茶，則可分為三大類：
1、正岩茶
指武夷山中心地帶岩石上所種的茶，視為最高品質。
2、半岩茶
指武夷山邊緣地帶的岩石上所種的茶，武夷山居民亦會飲用。
3、洲茶
泛指武夷山田地(而非岩石)上或沿溪兩岸所載種的茶，當地人甚少飲用，多作外銷用途。有不良商人在洲茶中混入香精等材料，假冒較優質的茶出售。
【製造方法】
武夷岩茶製作方法自有一套，兼取紅、綠茶製作原理精華，加上特殊技術，使之更加醇厚。而岩茶製作程序繁複細緻：
1、採摘：
時間要恰到好處，春茶一般在穀雨後立夏前開採。採摘嫩度對岩茶質量影響頗大。採摘過嫩，無法滿足焙製技術要求，成茶香氣低，味較苦澀；採摘太老則味淡。
2、萎凋：
有日光和加溫萎凋。是形成岩茶香味基礎。萎凋中變化顯著的是水分喪失，促進鮮葉內部發生變化。
3、做青：
岩茶製作過程中精巧程序，是形成其「三紅七綠」即綠葉紅鑲邊的獨特風格和色、香、味的重要環節。而手工茶是指做青中搖青方法用手工操作完成，特點是質高、味純、香氣持久耐儲。
4、炒青與揉撚：
炒青主要把萎凋做青過程已形成品質相對固定。並起純化香氣作用。高溫下完成團炒、吊炒、翻炒三樣動作，才能達到品質要求。起鍋後趁熱迅速揉撚、複炒。
5、烘焙：
複揉葉經解散後，於焙籠中攤放，明火高溫水焙，各焙窯溫度從高至低。其中燉火過程的細緻處理，為岩茶所獨有。經炒製後其形成彎條型，色澤烏亮帶褐帶墨綠帶寶色，條索緊結。
【特色 】
武夷「岩茶」獨享大自然惠澤，孕育出獨特韻味。明代徐火勃《茶考》述：「武夷山中土氣宜茶」。適宜的土壤，造就出岩茶的優良內質，奉獻給人們獨特的「花香岩骨」。
其中，烏龍茶是以烏龍種製造的茶，亦屬於「武夷岩茶」的一種，歸屬重醱酵茶，其醱酵程度70%左右，現在還有用古法製造的烏龍茶，這才是正宗的烏龍茶。高級烏龍茶是採「一葉一心」製造，成品外觀呈黃褐色，隥葉佈滿白毫芽。
沖泡後茶湯呈深橙黃色，清澈艷麗。兼有紅茶的甘醇、綠茶的清香；茶性和而不寒，久藏不壞，香久益清，味久益醇。
【武夷岩茶沖泡方式 】
武夷岩茶的沖泡，別具一格。
1、杯小如胡桃，壺小如椽，每斟無一兩，上口不忍遂咽，先嗅其香，再試其味，徐徐咀嚼而體貼之。
2、開湯第二泡香纏顯露。茶湯的香氣自口吸入，從咽喉經鼻孔呼出，連續三次，所謂「三口氣」，即可鑑別岩茶上品的氣。
3、因其香味濃郁，沖泡五、六次後餘韻猶存。
【武夷岩茶的保存】
1、武夷岩茶耐儲藏，溫度一般要求在20℃以下。
2、密封、乾燥、避光，可儲藏36個月以上，香味的損失不大。
3、武夷巖茶是條索狀、容易碎，不宜抽真空，一般包裝採硬質包裝，內袋用鋁鉑袋或者塑料袋包裝。
4、只要不讓茶葉跑氣，可買些密封性能好的不銹鋼罐存放。
5、一般不提倡在冰箱低溫保存，最好是用要錫鉑密封袋。
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