木柵鐵觀音
楊惟婷
「鐵觀音」茶湯如書法美學般優雅自在、亦如漢隸般雍容華貴，對鐵觀音品茗行家，當可感受「狂草入喉有如奔雷飛鴻、飲盡風霜無關筆劃輕重」的恢宏氣勢。
【起源 】
據傳說「鐵觀音茶」原產於大陸福建安溪縣，在清朝乾隆年間由一位茶農「魏蔭」所發現，因魏氏篤信佛教，認其茶樹是觀音所賜，而所製茶色深沉重似鐵，故名為「鐵觀音」。
「木柵鐵觀音茶」是於日據時代(清光緒年間)，木柵茶業公司委請張迺妙、張迺乾二位茶師由安溪引進純種茶苗，植於現在木柵國小後山及指南山觀光茶園樟湖內。恰因這一帶山區土質與氣候環境皆與原產地安溪十分相似，使鐵觀音生長良好且品質優異，廣受消費者喜愛，而後隨著種植面積的擴增，產量也有所倍增，年產大約6萬公斤，後來台北市政府及市農會開始在此地建造觀光茶園，吸引大量民眾前往休憩觀光，也使得木柵鐵觀音茶的聲名得以遠播。
【製造方法】
木柵鐵觀音茶，原產於大陸福建省安溪縣，其製法與安溪鐵觀音相當類似，但經過長年下來的研發和改良，木柵鐵觀音已有不同的特色。
木柵鐵觀音一年可採收四~五次，以一心二葉的方式採摘，每季鐵觀音的採收期為十五天，尤其以春茶和冬茶的品質為最佳，
「木柵鐵觀音茶」的製造是屬半發酵茶製造法，作業流程為：
採摘(上午8點～下午5點)—室內萎凋、浪菁(萎凋時間8-12小時、浪菁4-5次)—炒菁—初揉–布包團揉、覆炒(覆炒3-5次、團揉20-30次)—文火覆乾、覆揉(團揉10-20次)—初焙—揀枝—覆焙—成品。
木柵鐵觀音屬部分發酵茶，在製茶過程中最具特色的是茶葉初揉未足乾時，用方形布塊包裹，再用手在布包外輕輕轉動揉捻，而後放入焙龍用「文火」慢慢烘焙，使茶葉外型成圓曲緊結，反覆幾次後，便能使木柵鐵觀音具有特殊香味。
鐵觀音茶之布包團揉技術源自於大陸安溪，因安溪屬山區交通不便，茶農為減少茶葉體積，方便運送茶葉到市集而稍加布包團揉。
木柵鐵觀音茶之所以能流傳久遠，關鍵就再這裡有百分之九十五戶人家都姓張，每戶至少三至四代同堂，大家族揉合傳統茶藝與時代潮流，形成特殊茶香社區。
木柵鐵觀音，因近年來，茶農經不斷研究改良及受茶葉比賽、消費者嗜好的影響，所製造的鐵觀音外觀已超越大陸甚多，其形狀粒粒如豆、茶面油亮，擲入杯中，發出叮叮之聲，可謂實至名歸之「鐵觀音」。
鐵觀音茶種天生貴氣，栽種的土壤既不能肥也不得貧瘠，枝條斜生，產量少情況下，生產成本自然倍增。
製作與烘焙過程，更講求精緻與高超的技藝，任何一道手續都省不得。別的不說，光是一次得花費一、兩個鐘頭篩檢廿斤茶菁，使茶葉茶骨分離的持久耐力，就會讓一般人搖的手酸腳麻。再加上烘焙火候不得有任何疏忽，否則前功盡棄。
【產區概況】
目前種植於台北市文山區的木柵指南山到貓空一帶，同一產區的還有四季春、武夷、梅占、金萱等。
【特色 】
鐵觀音茶未經焙火或輕焙之鐵觀音茶湯呈黃至橙紅色，中焙火至重焙火的之鐵觀音湯色則呈橙紅至棕紅色，茶湯色澤明亮見杯底，杯面則有油亮的感覺。
口感濃郁而甘醇，略帶純和的弱果酸味，飲入後芬芳香氣持久不散，且回甘於喉，讓人欲罷不能。
鐵觀音在半發酵茶類當中屬於發酵空間較大的一種茶，由15%至50%均有人製造，所以香氣也由淡淡的花香、蜜香至濃濃的花果香、熟果香…不等。鐵觀音的香氣不只是由於發酵程度的不同而有變化，如地質、季節、布包團揉、烘焙也都是影響觀鐵音茶香氣之要因，所以欣賞鐵觀音之茶香，極富變化而不庸俗，其「熱香」至「冷香」、「粘杯香」真是耐人尋味。
另外，由於鐵觀音茶樹生長形態，橫張枝、折皺面，異於一般茶樹，所以產量不高。因葉多向陽，造成茶單寧等成份均高，葉面也較厚實。所以鐵觀音之沖泡，置茶量宜少不宜多，倒茶宜快不宜慢。壺以紫砂較適合；水溫第一道以沸水沖泡，第二至五道80至90度即可。
初嚐鐵觀音者，大多認為苦澀味較其他茶重，如果你用舌面與上顎接觸，你會發現有一層厚厚的茶汁在口中。而後再喝一小杯溫開水，就能感覺鐵觀音茶湯之美。有人說：鐵觀音是男人的茶，如果把鐵觀音等涼以後，再喝半口含於嘴裡，讓茶湯溫熱，你便能感受鐵觀音茶的剛強凌烈及醇正的茶香。
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