祁門紅茶
楊惟婷
如果說紅茶如酒,那麼中國的祁門紅茶就可當之無愧地比作紅酒中最負盛名的波爾多。
【起源 】
祁門紅茶,簡稱祁紅,是我國傳統功夫紅茶的珍品,為中國十大名茶中唯一的紅茶。
說起中國的紅茶,實發端于福建的武夷山正山小種紅茶,據記載,在清同治十年(1871年)由余干臣先生從福建罷官回籍(安徽)後開設茶莊,學會製作紅茶(因見福建紅茶外銷興盛,祁門產茶而綠茶銷售不旺,故勸導鄉民改制紅茶);為使其與眾不同,便在製作過程中加入一道特殊的發酵程序,讓茶葉在沖泡後散發特殊煙燻香氣和微紅的茶湯色,是一種同時帶有酒香和蘭花香氣的茶。
之前安徽省僅製作綠茶,但紅茶一推出便廣受歡迎,且流傳至英國,並成為英式茶點中最主要的成分,由於香氣獨特,冠於當世,有“茶中英豪”、“群芳最”、“茶中王子” 等美譽,深受當時上流社會包括歐洲皇室的追逐,後來更被視為高貴身分的象徵。
1915年巴拿馬萬國博覽會上,祁門紅茶和貴州茅臺同時獲得博覽會金質獎章,品質受到肯定,譽為世界三大高香名茶之首。
【產區概況】
祁門紅茶原產於安徽省西南黃山支脈區的祁門縣境內,因而得名。
此地區的自然生態環境十分優越,海拔高度為600公尺左右,丘陵密佈、水系縱橫,自古有“八山半水半分田”之說,茶園則一小塊、一小塊地分佈於山谷、坡地、河洲等土地肥沃、易墾易植之地。
此地區大約在海拔100到350公尺的丘陵地帶。由於土壤肥沃,早晚溫差大,加上常年雲霧繚繞,日照時間較短,使得祁門的紅茶有著特殊的芳香氣味,品質最為優異。
茶樹以櫧葉種為多(占81.1%),還有栗漆種、柳葉種等,其中櫧葉種又被稱為祁門種,是國家級珍貴的茶樹種資源。優良的茶樹品種,正是祁門紅茶久盛不衰的根本。
【製造方法】
祁門紅茶嚴謹的採製過程是使其品質優良的主因:
最好的祁門紅茶都是在清明前後,於優質的高山茶園採摘一芽兩葉的嫩蕊為主,芽葉嫩綠而有光澤,且須分次多採;春天的採摘次數約為六到七次,夏天為六次,秋天則不採。
最好的祁門紅茶須經老茶師精心製作,採摘回來後,經萎凋、揉撚、發酵、碳火烘焙,每一個環節都不能出錯。
製成茶葉後再精挑細選,成茶條索細緊、秀長勻淨、遍佈金毫,一兩茶中上千茶蕊一點也不誇張。
【特色 】
祁門紅茶為中國傳統功夫茶著名品目,芽葉柔嫩紅勻而有光澤,條形緊細纖長、鋒苗秀麗、色澤烏潤均一。
沖泡後,茶湯紅豔明亮,略帶果香的芬芳、濃郁而持久,入口滋味鮮醇,讓人欲罷不能!
“俗稱寶光”上品茶更蘊含蘭花的香,清飲最能品味祁紅的雋永香氣,即使添加鮮奶亦不失其香醇。
【祁門紅茶沖泡方式 】
祁門紅茶沖泡後湯色紅豔,國內叫紅茶,國外叫“黑茶”(black tea)。
沖泡祁門紅茶時,最好使用透明玻璃杯或瓷杯,且須以約80℃之熱水沖泡,最能將其特色展現。泡出來茶湯顏色紅亮,在杯子內沿有一圈黃色油潤的物質(俗稱金圈)。入口品嘗則兩腮生香,各種春天的芬芳在口腔中回蕩。
可單獨泡飲,加入牛奶飲用亦不減茶香的祈門紅茶,大受喜愛,且被認為是做下午茶或睡前茶的最優茶種。
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